Spring Trout with Pea Shoots and Potatoes

 

Spring Trout with Pea Shoots and Potatoes

 

Serves 2

 

Ingredients:

zest of 1 lime

2 T. lime juice

1 large or 2 small filets of red trout*

Lemongrass paste, optional

 

3-4 new potatoes, scrubbed

1 cup edamame or asparagus

 

2 T. cream

2 tsp. prepared horseradish sauce

zest and juice of a lemon

2 T. olive oil

sea salt

pepper

 

3 cloves of garlic, minced (about 2 T.)

1 bunch pea shoots

vegetable oil

 

 

  1. Marinate the trout in the lime juice, zest, and optional lemongrass paste in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes or overnight.
  2. Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for 12 minutes or until tender; add the asparagus or edamame for the final 2-3 minutes of cooking time. Drain and cover with cold water; set aside to cool. Drain well and slice the potatoes.
  3. For the dressing, whisk the cream, horseradish, lemon zest and juice and olive oil together and season with salt and pepper.
  4. In a wok or skillet, add a swirl of oil and heat to medium high. Pat the trout filets dry with a paper towel and place in wok skin-side down. Cook for 2 minutes and remove to a heated plate. Cover and keep warm.
  5. Add the minced garlic and pea shoots to the wok and stir to coat with oil. Cover and cook for 2 minutes. Shoots should be wilted and bright green (See photo below). Lower heat and place the filets back in the wok on top of the shoots. Cover and warm 2 minutes more.
  6. Divide the pea shoots, sliced potatoes, asparagus and trout between 2 plates. Drizzle with dressing and garnish with the remaining lemon, cut into wedges.

 



Recipe developed by Lee Recca. Please feel free to copy, distribute and modify this recipe.

* The red or brook trout is one of three species of trout native to North America that is making a comeback after being decimated by the proliferation of the European brown trout. Learn more about this from Smithsonian Magazine.

The Face of Childhood Food Insecurity

Food insecurity is one of those invisible disabilities whose impacts we tend to underestimate. One social worker said, “I often encounter a child who looks like a healthy one-year-old, just to find out it’s a two-year-old whose growth has been stunted by food insecurity.” At the other end of the spectrum, there’s an epidemic of childhood obesity. In 2019, UNICEF found that nearly two in three children were either undernourished or overweight. The pandemic has made things worse. The impacts of food insecurity can linger in poor physical and mental health as well as in poor choices and habits. It can be a lifelong burden.

During my last trip to Europe, a man who grew up in Cuba was in my traveling party. At night, he would raid the refrigerator at our B&B, eating food planned to be served the next day. He was embarrassed and tried to hide his behavior, but he couldn’t stop himself. He perhaps also suffered from bulimia, since he was rail-thin.

There are treatments and ways of healing for those with eating disorders. But what can be done to heal the millions who experience day-to-day food insecurity?

Start Early

Conventional advice is to encourage conversations about food and to be a good role model as a parent (for instance, this advice from Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics). But many of these recommendations are pedantic and hard to implement. A gentler approach is taken by the elder stateswoman of enlightened eating, Alice Waters. Starting in 1996, her foundation revolutionized school lunches the way she had previously revolutionized restaurant fare. Now, she has embarked on an even more ambitious plan to put gardens and food at the heart of every school. The Edible Schoolyard manifesto is here.

School Lunches

Since its inception, the USDA school lunch program has been tied to farmer subsidies, resulting in tons of surplus commodity foods like cheese, potatoes, and processed grains going to students. The shelf-stable foodstuffs have not only given the nation’s schoolchildren an unbalanced menu but have also caused them to prefer salty, doughy, processed fare. Untying school lunches from farm subsidies doesn’t really solve the larger problem of farmers being paid to grow massive commodity crops, whether they need the subsidies or not, whether they grow sustainably or not. That is the subject for a future Deep Dive.

One of the many lessons that the pandemic taught us is that funneling food relief and nutrition programs through schools is not enough. We need direct channels to mothers to augment the school programs, returning food sovereignty to them.

An Appetite for Action

“There’s been a huge change in the language and the desire to end childhood hunger. . . and the increase in funding is at a scale we haven’t seen probably in 50 years,” said Noreen Springstead, the executive director of WhyHunger, an organization that works to end hunger. Let’s hope so. There are some promising signs: the Special Supplemental Nutrition Program for Women, Infants, and Children (WIC) is being expanded. The 1960s-era food stamp program, which evolved into SNAP, is also being expanded.

Governmental programs and feeding kids at school are not enough. Food pantries are not enough. Food relief programs, faith-based feeding, oases in food deserts; all these are not enough, argues Lisa Held in Civil Eats. A sweeping Child Nutrition Reauthorization is gearing up that will update and reimagine how U.S. children are supported through food. What will finally be enough, people are realizing, is nothing short than a holistic approach that examines all issues that impact children’s ability to thrive. This includes fair wages for parents, child tax credits, and childcare subsidies, access to health care and insurance, transportation, and safe, affordable places to live. 

 


 ARS.gov Scott Bauer photo

Update: Slow and Small Solutions

In early February, the USDA finally took some baby steps towards better nutrition for children in schools. As of mid-year, 80 percent of grains served will need to be at least 50 percent whole grains. That adds up to an increase in whole grains by one-third. 

Beginning next year, sodium must be reduced by 10 percent. These requirements fall short of the 10-year-old rules set by the Obama Administration, but are an improvement over the relaxed rules of the Trump Administration, which favored food manufacturers. 

The School Nutrition Association is also happy about the baby steps, citing the difficulty of getting enough food of any kind on the tray during pandemic-caused supply chain disruptions. Meanwhile states are stepping into the picture. For instance, Colorado's Department of Agriculture is paving the way for small and urban growers to sell their produce directly to schools. 

Reporting on federal changes by The Counter. Colorado's Farm to Child survey is here.

Brands That Tell a Story

 

Brands that tell a story

Have you noticed some different looking brand names on your grocer’s shelves? Here are a couple of examples of products I had to study before buying. On the box of instant oatmeal the words “Thick & Hearty” stand out the most. But the brand name appears to be “Better Oats” which appears on a curve above like a house name on an arched door. 

 

Below the “Thick & Hearty” is another line of type: “Instant Oatmeal with Flax Seeds.” The plot thickens—literally! Because that’s what this package is, a story! Oatmeal and flax are the two main characters.


There’s yet another line on the box: “Blueberry Muffin.” I know what blueberries taste like, but I don’t know what muffin tastes like, especially in a bowl of oatmeal. This seems to be a plot twist, as if the package were saying, “Yes, I know you want a muffin for breakfast, but since you have to eat oatmeal, I’m going to suggest a muffin and trick your brain into thinking you’re eating one.”

 

The story wraps up on the back with photos of the main characters. It promises that “you’ll fall in love” at the first bite and to “satisfy any sweet tooth”. How does that happen when there’s no sugar? But wait! The fine print on the side says that sugar is the second ingredient after oats! There’s also salt, natural and artificial flavor, citric acid, and “caramel color”. Not brown, caramel.

 

So, there you have it. Brand story, complete with characters, plot, hidden bad guy, sugar rush for the climax, and eventual letdown. To be completed in 10 one-cup installments.

 

The other example is a story written on a white bottle with black and red ink as if it were a newspaper page. This cooking oil doesn’t even say “cooking oil” on it. Instead it advises us to “Use this oil for cooking.” I know that “Chefs Life” is the brand because I see a little “TM” like a period. (Shouldn’t it be “Chef’s Life” or Chefs Live”? Never mind.) The bottle tells the story with four characters: Avocado, Olive, Sunflower, and Grapeseed, and there’s a lively plot: “Sauté, Fry, Roast, Bake.” The happy ending is also trademarked: “Love to Cook.”


Midwinter Blueberry Thrills

 It's the bleak midwinter, and to browse through the produce aisles and come upon stacks of plump blueberry packages can give quite a thrill. My body craves these treasures of deep blue goodness. Blueberries in Colorado? In midwinter? it does not compute and I can not resist. 


Let's review the benefits of blueberries. Medical News Today says that:

  • Blueberries can help heart health, bone strength, skin health, blood pressure, diabetes management, cancer prevention, and mental health.
  • One cup of blueberries provides 24 percent of a person's recommended daily allowance of vitamin C.

The berries possess generous amounts of Vitamin K, which is not well understood. It boosts skin health, connective tissue strength, and benefits the coverings around nerves and blood vessels. They have antioxidant properties. They contribute to prostate health in men. 

Blueberries are thought to grow in only boggy, humid places like Michigan. Not so! In fact, I have three blueberry plants in my back yard. I keep them happy with generous applications of coffee grounds and pine needles that acidify the soil. Blueberry crops are also starting to come from places like Mexico and Peru. Mexico is where the beauties pictured are from.

Aside from sprinkling them on our cereal in the morning or eating them out of hand, what can we do with blueberries? I've adapted a recipe from Judith Fertig's that has become one of my holiday favorites: Braised Red Cabbage with Blueberries. 

Fertig is a Midwesterner who spent time in Europe and received culinary training in Paris and at London's Cordon Bleu. When she returned to Kansas City, she began to see the ingredients and practices of prairie cooking anew. I bought her book Pure Prairie at Hall's Crown Center in KC, and have clung to it ever since. It is no doubt out of print. This recipe is hers but for the addition of the blueberries. 

Braised Red Cabbage with Blueberries

  • 1/2 cup unsalted butter (or use half butter, half olive oil)
  • 1 red onion, peeled and chopped
  • 1 head red cabbage, cored and shredded
  • 1 red apple, cored and chopped
  • 1/3 cup chokecherry or red currant jelly
  • 8 ounces blueberries
  • salt to taste

Melt the butter in a large pot with a cover. Add onion and cook until translucent, about 4 minutes. Add cabbage, apple and jelly. Stir to coat. Cover, turn down heat to low, and let simmer until cabbage is tender. Stir in blueberries and heat. Season to taste and serve. Cabbage is good reheated. 

 



 

Reading The Dawn of Everything

 






 Footprints of children and adults from near White Sands National Monument in New Mexico, dated at more than 20,000 years old

 

 

The Food Web 3,000 Years Before Agriculture

In the sixth chapter of The Dawn of Everything by David Graeber and David Wengrow, the question of when agriculture began is addressed. This question is thought to be all-important because of the assumption that settled cities, bureaucracy, politics, warfare, and society in general all arose from the practice of agriculture. Indeed, in an almost Biblical Garden-of-Eden way, agriculture has been called the source of all ills and evils. ‘But how can we live without agriculture?’ we cry. This dichotomy doesn’t need to exist because, as Graeber and Wengrow prove in their 692-page tome, this condemnation is a myth.

Neolithic peoples could have domesticated wild grains, clearing, tilling and planting fields, protecting seedlings from animals and growing crops as early as 10,000 years ago. But they didn’t. For 3,000 years, they instead practiced pre-domestication cultivation, doing the minimal amount of work “to improve the life chances of favored crops.” Often, this took the form of “flood retreat” or décrue farming, where seeds were sown in the alluvial mud left behind during seasonal floods of rivers or floodplains. There were no enclosures, fixed plots, or measurements, because the areas to be planted changed from season to season.

With the seasonal shifts, cultivation did not beget cities. It was the other way around, with cities located where people wanted to hunt, forage, trade and gather. Neolithic gardens were laboratories with scientists (mostly women) as the first gardeners. And for thousands of years, these food raising and gathering methods were successful. The authors describe a free ecology, where peoples were able to “retain a food web sufficiently broad as to prevent cultivation from becoming a matter of life and death.”

Off to a Rocky Start

So, after 3,000 years of a mixed bag of cultivating, hunting, and foraging, early agriculture began with the domestication of cereal grains such as wheat, barley, and millet, as well as domestication of sheep, goats, pigs, and cattle. The crops were gathered by hand or sickle, and the grains most suited for farming made it into the next year’s sowing. The grains also had to be threshed (seeds beaten off) and winnowed (hulls removed).  This had already been going on for a long time, because people found the straw even more valuable than the seeds. Straw was used for animal bedding and fodder, fuel, baskets, clothing, mats, and roof thatch. It was also mixed with clay to build pottery, structures, and furniture.

Agriculture was first practiced on plains and in marginal areas where fisherfolk, hunters, and foragers didn’t live. There were setbacks and crop failures; these settlements sometimes ended in violence, disease, starvation, and mass graves. “…the grain-based kingdoms were fragile, always prone to collapse under the weight of over-population, ecological devastation and the kind of endemic diseases that always seemed to result when too many humans, domesticated animals and parasites accumulated in one place.”

Parallels to Today

People, especially young women, left the failed agricultural settlements and went to live with the hunters/foragers. Later examples of this kind of migration were in the early 18th Century in North America. Visiting Jesuits described daily life among the Iroquoi: “Each day the adult men of a town would gather to spend much of the day arguing about politics, in a spirit of rational debate, in conversations punctuated by the smoking of tobacco and the drinking of caffeinated beverages.”

Centralized and hereditary power, personal freedoms and the independence of women were much debated during these Native American councils. The Osage nation of the Great Plains found it necessary to ‘move to a new country’ several times to reform and restart their self-government, reorganizing the placement of their physical structures as well as their outlook and approach. 


 

Ideas and cultural practices of Native Americans made their way back to Europe and influenced the Enlightenment movement. Indigenous philosophers who were invited to come to Europe and speak their mind created a discourse described as the ‘Indigenous Critique’ that further influenced Enlightenment thinkers, particularly in France. A passion for the Native American values of liberty, equality, and fraternity began to grow and culminated in the turbulence of the French Revolution. The resulting backlash put reactionary thinkers at the forefront, and indigenous peoples were branded as savages. Modern social theory stems from this backlash.

Earlier civilizations were more thoughtful, more creative, and freer than we give them credit for. The authors ask who was the first woman “to figure out that you could make bread rise by the addition of …yeasts?” The zone of ritual play is also that of social experimentation. But at a point in time not tied to agriculture, social reality froze into a pattern of violence and domination, and has not really progressed beyond it. The authors cite the anthropologist Franz Steiner’s work in pinpointing when and how this happened. Where there were royal courts, disconnected people, widows, orphans, the disabled, refugees, and people who had surrendered in war gathered for protection. Welcomed and accorded special status at first, these people were gradually downgraded to the positions of domestic workers and then enslaved. They were deprived of the first and foremost freedom identified by the authors: the freedom to move away or to escape from the domination of others. This also led to the loss of the second freedom to disobey or ignore others. Then, finally the last and greatest freedom was lost: that of envisioning new ways of relating with others.

 

 


Mix and Match Grain Bowls

 

Mix and Match Grain Bowls

 

GRAIN

Sorghum: Gluten free, with a hearty texture and mild flavor

 

Quinoa: Gluten free, and packed with protein

 

Wild and brown rice: Also gluten free

 

Buckwheat, amaranth: actually a seed/fruit. 

 

Couscous: Made from durum wheat. Contains gluten.

 

GREENS

Arugula, kale, sprouts, microgreens.

 

Courtesy of the Cleveland Clinic.
PROTEIN

Black beans, garbanzo beans, lentils, tofu

 

PRODUCE

Beets, carrots, green beans, peas, radishes, sweet potato, tomatoes

 

FINISHING TOUCHES

Cheese, dressing/sauce (lemon wedges, oil and vinegar, miso, hummus, pesto, peanut, teriyaki, salsa), herbs (basil, chives, cilantro, dill, mint, parsley, tarragon), nuts (chopped walnuts, cashews, pine nuts, sliced almonds), pickled veggies, seeds (flaxseeds, pumpkin, sesame, sunflower), sprouts

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