Sea Vegetable Salad

Sea Vegetable Salad

This recipe marries vegetables from land and sea. I obtained the arame from a store called Natural Grocers, very much like Whole Foods. 


Dressing:

2 T. soy sauce

2 T. rice vinegar

1 T. mirin

1 tsp. sesame oil

2 T. grated ginger

Salad:


1/2 cup dried arame

1/2 cup red bell pepper, minced

1/2 cup chopped scallions

1/2 cup carrot, minced

1/2 cup English cucumber, sliced

1/2 cup bamboo or coconut shoots

1 T. sesame seeds, toasted 

Assembly:

Soak the arame in water for 30 minutes. Drain and squeeze out excess water. Mix ingredients for dressing. Arrange ingredients and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Drizzle with dressing. 



Send in the Cows

 

Overgrazing by cattle has depleted much of America’s pastures, rangelands, and even public lands. It has caused or contributed to desertification. So, the answer is…to let cattle graze the lands?

 

As we say in permaculture, “The problem is the solution.” This doesn’t always hold true, but there is a case for sending in the cows, as Judith Schwartz says in her book Cows Save the Planet (Chelsea Green, 2013). More and more agricultural leaders, environmentalists, and land management and conservation experts are joining in to urge for “more cowbell.”

 

As a young woman, I moved to Los Angeles from my native Kansas and I was surprised to see cows grazing on the cloverleaves where cars entered and exited the freeways. It was not that I hadn’t seen cows (I was from Kansas, after all) but seeing them in an urban area seemed incongruous. A decade later, I traveled to Switzerland, and found that cows are accepted and integrated into the community because rural and urban populations there understand the role of the bovines in keeping the landscapes healthy. 

 

The Swiss Solution

On a fine spring morning in the Swiss Alps, blades of grass push through the thawing snow, so green it hurts my eyes. As I pass one of the sturdy Swiss barns, I hear cows lowing, smelling the grass and crying to be let out to pasture.

 

But the barns are shut tight because if the cows are allowed into the fields too early, the grass will be torn up under their hooves. A farmer and son go through the fields in a tractor fitted with a cannon-like tool. Called a “shit shooter” by the populace, it distributes manure from the barn to nourish the grass and encourage growth.

 

This ritual has played out over centuries in the Alps, sustaining the peoples’ way of life and giving structure to their seasons. Soon the day will come when the cows are let into the pastures. In late spring, the cows will be paraded proudly through town, cowbells ringing and horns bedecked with spring flowers. All traffic stops as the herders and their dogs move up the mountainsides. As they reach the grassy hills, the cows spread out and begin grazing. Another rite of passage has been completed. 


 

Glimmers of Hope

The thin, rocky topsoil of the Alps has been maintained sustainably over many generations. In other places, the introduction of cattle has led to depleted soil and declining productivity.

In 1991, Gabe Brown began farming a 1,760-acre spread near Bismark, North Dakota. He followed the usual practices: tilling, fertilizing, applying pesticides and herbicides as well as conventional grazing. But after four years of freak storms and crop failures, he almost lost the farm. He chose to try to regenerate his failing enterprise using holistic management practices.

 

That was 30 years ago. Today, Brown no longer tills or removes the debris left after harvesting. He no longer uses pesticides and far less fertilizers and herbicides. His cattle are managed much the way the Swiss do. He grows 140 speces of native grasses, forbs, and legumes for his livestock. “Ag has a big role in healing Earth,” he says. “And it begins with the soil.”

 

Seven hundred miles southeast, Kyle and Karl Dallefeld are farmers in Iowa, grass farmers, that is. Their company is called the Dallefeld Cattle Company, but you’ll find them talking about growing grass, native plants, and soil more often than cows. They practice rotational grazing, where small herds graze an area enclosed in temporary fencing for three or four days; then they’re moved and don’t come to that area for at least 45 days. This allows the 51 species of plants and grass to regenerate and maintain lush stands of growth.

 

These are only two examples of new practices in Earth stewardship and managing herds. On the Western plains, ranchers are experimenting with driving their herds across the landscape like bison, trimming the grass, hoof tilling and manure fertilizing in one fell swoop. 

 

Becoming Soil Stewards

Managed grazing leads to less pollution and water loss, as well as healthier soils. But that’s not all. Cows Save the Planet quotes Australian soils expert Christine Jones in praising the carbon-holding skill of resilient soils: “A soil carbon improvement of just 0.5 percent in the top 12 inches of 2 percent of Australia’s agricultural land would effectively store that country’s annual carbon dioxide emissions over the long term.” It’s an investment we all should seriously make. 


 

 

Panda Soup

Souper for using up odds and ends--

Panda Soup

With tender sprouts and shoots, rounded out with pantry staples, this soup is ideal for a cold late winter or spring day. 

Ingredients:

  • 1 T. or less vegetable oil
  • 1 large or 2 small shallots or 1/2 yellow onion
  • 2 large or 4 small cloves of garlic, minced
  • 1-inch knob of fresh ginger, peeled and minced
  • 1/2 cup celery, sliced*
  • 1/2 cup bell pepper, cut in matchstick pieces*
  • 1/2 cup carrots, cut in matchstick pieces 
  • 1/2 cup bamboo shoots, cut in matchstick pieces* 
  • 1/3 cup fresh or frozen edamame*
  • pinch of chili pepper flakes
  • 2 cups kelp or rice noodles, rinsed and drained
  • 2 cups vegetable, mushroom, pho or chicken broth
  • 2 cups water, or more broth
  • 1/4 cup cilantro, stems removed and cut in matchstick pieces*
  • 2 T. soy sauce or 2 tsp. salt
  • Splash of Shaoxing wine
  • Juice of 1/2 lime
  • Sliced scallions, optional (green part only)*

Assembly:

Gather all the ingredients, wash, dry, and cut all the vegetables. Heat oil in a wok or large skillet. Add the shallot or onion, stir and cook until translucent, about 1-2 minutes. Follow with the celery, bell pepper, cilantro stems, bamboo shoots, ginger and garlic. Finally, add the carrots and edamame. Stir and cook until all the veggies are tender but stop before they start to brown. Add the pepper flakes and stir once more. Add the broth and water and bring to a boil. Add the kelp noodles, stir, lower heat, cover and simmer about 10 minutes until the flavors meld. 


Add 2-4 T. of Shaoxing wine and soy sauce or salt (taste and adjust seasonings). Ladle into bowls and top with snipped cilantro, juice of 1/2 lime and sliced scallions, if desired.

Makes about 4 servings

*can be left out or substituted with whatever you have on hand



 


How 2021 Surprised Us

 In Food

How 2021 Surprised Us

We rediscovered how to cook. We learned, or re-learned how to garden. We went behind the scenes of the grocery store. We were shocked to hear the dangers of working at a meat packing plant. We discovered farmers near our communities, even inside cities, on roofs, in yards, tucked into vacant spaces. We even found food growing in our cities and neighborhoods. 

Here are two kinds of tomatillo grown in a Western garden. The purple ones are the size of regular tomatillos, while the green ones are the size of a hand! This surprising fruit often grows better than a tomato plant, and can be eaten raw or cooked. It also keeps well, staying tart and juicy well into the fall.

Another surprise was realizing how dependent on restaurants and take-out places we've become. In some cases, we had to relearn how to cook and keep ourselves fed. I used to get kofta, vegetarian Indian patties in curry, from a place around the corner about once a week. When I tried to make it for myself, it took all day! 

I also used a meal kit service, Hello Fresh, for about six months. Even though the recipes were designed to be prepared in 20 minutes or less, I still spent at least an hour in the kitchen with clean-up factored in. And allowances had to be made to photograph my creations for Instagram! Though I no longer subscribe to the service, I've kept the recipes to be used over and over, customizing them to my preferences.

We've learned much that has been suppressed or forgotten about how Indigenous peoples cultivated, grew on, and cared for their lands. Did you know that canyonlands of the U.S. were once covered in peach trees planted by Navajo people? A woman named Reagan Wytsalucy is working to bring back the peach orchards. Her story is recounted in Return to Now. 

As surprised as we were about food shortages at the grocery store, I think we were even more surprised that stores recovered so quickly and came back with plentiful harvests, particularly of fresh produce. Building back the meat processing industry will take longer because working conditions must be improved and decentralization must take place. Just two weeks ago, U.S. Secretary of Agriculture Tom Vilsak visited Wheat Ridge Meat and Poultry, a few blocks from my house, to learn about their multi-generation operation and the independent processing facility they are building. The fact that four processors control 85 percent of the beef industry is unsustainable and leads to poor prospects for employees. 


We volunteered in local gardens and food distribution centers and learned surprising facts about food. For instance, do you know what this contraption is? It's a hand operated mower to harvest baby greens. You simply insert a cordless drill or screwdriver in the side handle which makes the braided strings go around and gently gather the greens into the bag. I got to use one while volunteering at a local urban garden and CSA outlet in July, Green Gate Farms, pictured below. 

Comment with your surprises during 2021 on the subject of food. Let's keep the conversation going and enter the post-pandemic era with mindfulness and purpose. 









Spring Trout with Pea Shoots and Potatoes

 

Spring Trout with Pea Shoots and Potatoes

 

Serves 2

 

Ingredients:

zest of 1 lime

2 T. lime juice

1 large or 2 small filets of red trout*

Lemongrass paste, optional

 

3-4 new potatoes, scrubbed

1 cup edamame or asparagus

 

2 T. cream

2 tsp. prepared horseradish sauce

zest and juice of a lemon

2 T. olive oil

sea salt

pepper

 

3 cloves of garlic, minced (about 2 T.)

1 bunch pea shoots

vegetable oil

 

 

  1. Marinate the trout in the lime juice, zest, and optional lemongrass paste in the refrigerator for at least 20 minutes or overnight.
  2. Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for 12 minutes or until tender; add the asparagus or edamame for the final 2-3 minutes of cooking time. Drain and cover with cold water; set aside to cool. Drain well and slice the potatoes.
  3. For the dressing, whisk the cream, horseradish, lemon zest and juice and olive oil together and season with salt and pepper.
  4. In a wok or skillet, add a swirl of oil and heat to medium high. Pat the trout filets dry with a paper towel and place in wok skin-side down. Cook for 2 minutes and remove to a heated plate. Cover and keep warm.
  5. Add the minced garlic and pea shoots to the wok and stir to coat with oil. Cover and cook for 2 minutes. Shoots should be wilted and bright green (See photo below). Lower heat and place the filets back in the wok on top of the shoots. Cover and warm 2 minutes more.
  6. Divide the pea shoots, sliced potatoes, asparagus and trout between 2 plates. Drizzle with dressing and garnish with the remaining lemon, cut into wedges.

 



Recipe developed by Lee Recca. Please feel free to copy, distribute and modify this recipe.

* The red or brook trout is one of three species of trout native to North America that is making a comeback after being decimated by the proliferation of the European brown trout. Learn more about this from Smithsonian Magazine.

The Face of Childhood Food Insecurity

Food insecurity is one of those invisible disabilities whose impacts we tend to underestimate. One social worker said, “I often encounter a child who looks like a healthy one-year-old, just to find out it’s a two-year-old whose growth has been stunted by food insecurity.” At the other end of the spectrum, there’s an epidemic of childhood obesity. In 2019, UNICEF found that nearly two in three children were either undernourished or overweight. The pandemic has made things worse. The impacts of food insecurity can linger in poor physical and mental health as well as in poor choices and habits. It can be a lifelong burden.

During my last trip to Europe, a man who grew up in Cuba was in my traveling party. At night, he would raid the refrigerator at our B&B, eating food planned to be served the next day. He was embarrassed and tried to hide his behavior, but he couldn’t stop himself. He perhaps also suffered from bulimia, since he was rail-thin.

There are treatments and ways of healing for those with eating disorders. But what can be done to heal the millions who experience day-to-day food insecurity?

Start Early

Conventional advice is to encourage conversations about food and to be a good role model as a parent (for instance, this advice from Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics). But many of these recommendations are pedantic and hard to implement. A gentler approach is taken by the elder stateswoman of enlightened eating, Alice Waters. Starting in 1996, her foundation revolutionized school lunches the way she had previously revolutionized restaurant fare. Now, she has embarked on an even more ambitious plan to put gardens and food at the heart of every school. The Edible Schoolyard manifesto is here.

School Lunches

Since its inception, the USDA school lunch program has been tied to farmer subsidies, resulting in tons of surplus commodity foods like cheese, potatoes, and processed grains going to students. The shelf-stable foodstuffs have not only given the nation’s schoolchildren an unbalanced menu but have also caused them to prefer salty, doughy, processed fare. Untying school lunches from farm subsidies doesn’t really solve the larger problem of farmers being paid to grow massive commodity crops, whether they need the subsidies or not, whether they grow sustainably or not. That is the subject for a future Deep Dive.

One of the many lessons that the pandemic taught us is that funneling food relief and nutrition programs through schools is not enough. We need direct channels to mothers to augment the school programs, returning food sovereignty to them.

An Appetite for Action

“There’s been a huge change in the language and the desire to end childhood hunger. . . and the increase in funding is at a scale we haven’t seen probably in 50 years,” said Noreen Springstead, the executive director of WhyHunger, an organization that works to end hunger. Let’s hope so. There are some promising signs: the Special Supplemental Nutrition Program for Women, Infants, and Children (WIC) is being expanded. The 1960s-era food stamp program, which evolved into SNAP, is also being expanded.

Governmental programs and feeding kids at school are not enough. Food pantries are not enough. Food relief programs, faith-based feeding, oases in food deserts; all these are not enough, argues Lisa Held in Civil Eats. A sweeping Child Nutrition Reauthorization is gearing up that will update and reimagine how U.S. children are supported through food. What will finally be enough, people are realizing, is nothing short than a holistic approach that examines all issues that impact children’s ability to thrive. This includes fair wages for parents, child tax credits, and childcare subsidies, access to health care and insurance, transportation, and safe, affordable places to live. 

 


 ARS.gov Scott Bauer photo

Update: Slow and Small Solutions

In early February, the USDA finally took some baby steps towards better nutrition for children in schools. As of mid-year, 80 percent of grains served will need to be at least 50 percent whole grains. That adds up to an increase in whole grains by one-third. 

Beginning next year, sodium must be reduced by 10 percent. These requirements fall short of the 10-year-old rules set by the Obama Administration, but are an improvement over the relaxed rules of the Trump Administration, which favored food manufacturers. 

The School Nutrition Association is also happy about the baby steps, citing the difficulty of getting enough food of any kind on the tray during pandemic-caused supply chain disruptions. Meanwhile states are stepping into the picture. For instance, Colorado's Department of Agriculture is paving the way for small and urban growers to sell their produce directly to schools. 

Reporting on federal changes by The Counter. Colorado's Farm to Child survey is here.

Brands That Tell a Story

 

Brands that tell a story

Have you noticed some different looking brand names on your grocer’s shelves? Here are a couple of examples of products I had to study before buying. On the box of instant oatmeal the words “Thick & Hearty” stand out the most. But the brand name appears to be “Better Oats” which appears on a curve above like a house name on an arched door. 

 

Below the “Thick & Hearty” is another line of type: “Instant Oatmeal with Flax Seeds.” The plot thickens—literally! Because that’s what this package is, a story! Oatmeal and flax are the two main characters.


There’s yet another line on the box: “Blueberry Muffin.” I know what blueberries taste like, but I don’t know what muffin tastes like, especially in a bowl of oatmeal. This seems to be a plot twist, as if the package were saying, “Yes, I know you want a muffin for breakfast, but since you have to eat oatmeal, I’m going to suggest a muffin and trick your brain into thinking you’re eating one.”

 

The story wraps up on the back with photos of the main characters. It promises that “you’ll fall in love” at the first bite and to “satisfy any sweet tooth”. How does that happen when there’s no sugar? But wait! The fine print on the side says that sugar is the second ingredient after oats! There’s also salt, natural and artificial flavor, citric acid, and “caramel color”. Not brown, caramel.

 

So, there you have it. Brand story, complete with characters, plot, hidden bad guy, sugar rush for the climax, and eventual letdown. To be completed in 10 one-cup installments.

 

The other example is a story written on a white bottle with black and red ink as if it were a newspaper page. This cooking oil doesn’t even say “cooking oil” on it. Instead it advises us to “Use this oil for cooking.” I know that “Chefs Life” is the brand because I see a little “TM” like a period. (Shouldn’t it be “Chef’s Life” or Chefs Live”? Never mind.) The bottle tells the story with four characters: Avocado, Olive, Sunflower, and Grapeseed, and there’s a lively plot: “Sauté, Fry, Roast, Bake.” The happy ending is also trademarked: “Love to Cook.”


End of Summer Salads

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